WINERY Company

A Few Word News

Beguiling Bubblies - drinking well at every price

Value is most certainly in the eye of the beholder, and perhaps no more so than in these economically turbulent times. And just as the light is seeming to appear at the end of the world’s collective tunnel of financial malaise, there has been a subtle, downward tick in price of that most celebratory of wines, Champagne. Though it will never move into the bargain category, this “adjustment” may continue as the dollar perks up vis-à-vis the euro. In short, this is the best time in recent memory to jump back into bubbles.

The great houses of Reims and Épernay have given consumers even more incentive to branch out by adding to their offerings, either with newish categories, such as zero dosage wines, or within existing lineups by including new wines at different price points. In this respect, the venerable house of Taittinger has added wines to two categories in the last few years (Prélude Grands Crus and a sec called Nocturne), while Pommery has created an intriguing complement of four new cuveés christened Spring, Summer, Fall and Winter ($55 each).

The pecking order between the categories remains pretty much the same. The non-vintage brut, every house’s workhorse, remains both the most abundant offering and the least expensive. Next up is the vintage label, one that usually clocks in at about two times the price of NV brut. Then there is the prestige cuvée, which is some multiple of the vintage wine (the multiple depends on the house). The stratification is repeated within the rosé category, with the general rule being that this exalted — and increasingly popular (thus, important) — segment starts basically where vintage blancs begin, and then goes up accordingly. And because life is truly getting sweet again, why not raise a glass or two of demi-sec? After all, we deserve it.